While taken very seriously in the Middle East, oud has only caught on in a big way in the UK in last few years. It is derived from the tropical agar tree, which is thought to originate in Assam in India. When the tree is infected by a mould known as Phialophora parasitica it reacts by producing a dense, dark and fragrant resin to protect itself. It is the resin-embedded heartwood of the tree that is the source of oud. After last year's release of Oud Noir, Versace complements the Oud Collection with a female fragrance, Oud Oriental, in a stunning gold statement. Versace came very late to the oud craze, you may think. Well, for these kind of oud fragrances they are launching, I think It's the perfect timing, since they are not really just oud fragrances, although they decided to name these editions to make you think you will smelll lots of oud. You wont! These are perfumes with oud in them but very far from the bold oud craziness of the last years. These are perfect examples of the future of oud in Western perfume culture, as I see it. It's like this sleek, modern Persian neighbor you see every day at the art gallery wearing minimalist designer clothes. You can see the exotic facial features but all in all she is a refined woman who could be from anywhere between New York to Paris or Milan. And this mix is what makes her interesting and attractive. In summary, a masculine, mysterious, seductive and all around harmonious oud scent, which can and will satisfy both the beginner and the experienced! Now this is a traditional combination: oud and rose. But don't expect the same result as all other combinations based on these notes. Oud Oriental is more complex and subtle than that, and it's a gender-bender that will please all floriental lovers. Rose is the star of this creation, but it is masterfully distorted with freesia and violet to make it more spicy and sweet. This peppery, spicy-sweet rose makes the perfect pair for a very balmy and medicinal oud note that goes away with time, developing slowly on the skin and becoming slightly animalic (leather) towards the end. The sweetness of vanilla and heliotrope brings out the powdery aspect of Oud Oriental. Over the years, as I gradually developed into a true perfume enthusiast, I inevitably came across the ingredient "Oud", which can be found at least once in almost every perfume portfolio of every perfume-producing brand today More and more I was concerned with that ingredient that is loved by some and hated by others; to me it seemed worthy of a glance or a snoop. As a result, I didn't have the "courage" to buy a (designer) fragrance with "Oud" in its name, and certainly not an expensive one from any niche perfumer.

The opening is all peppery woods and smoke, a really nice kind of somehow clean and fresh smoky oud, in spite of how contradictory that might sound. Eventually these darker notes give way to sweeter neroli and some bigarade for counter-balance, all of which replaces the grape leaf opening of Versace Man. The familiar saffron and cardamom from Versace Man floats into view, with the tobacco note of Versace Man died down to a nondescript tonka to support a greater presence of patchouli and woody-amber materials judiciously applied (no sandpaper scratch here). Beyond that, traces of Amouage-like incense (the highest-quality note in Versace pour Homme Oud Noir) really hit home the purpose of this being a "premium" upgrade from the usual masculine Versace fare. Performance is perfectly fine, although this gets quieter after hour two. I perceive the opening as one marked by a spicy and peppery bitter orange. The neroli also contributes to this and gives the opening some freshness, whereby I especially smell the pepper and the bitter orange. Within about 5 minutes the top note disappears and merges - in my opinion a bit too choppy - into the heart note; the moment of transition is very short. The oud is rather subdued, but is still perceptible and characterizes the fragrance especially with the - in my case 3-4 hours lasting - heart note of strong, sweet incense and rather weaker, spicy saffron. This Oriental should be worn preferably in autumn and winter because of its warmth, heaviness and sweetness and is suitable for every occasion, but especially for going out and cold evenings and nights. The scent itself varies considerably depending on the wood used, where the tree was grown and whether the tree itself was cultivated or naturally infected. The fragrance is – unsurprisingly – described as warm and woody with a slight hint of damp rot, while some varieties are smoky and sweet. It can be very potent so not one for the faint-hearted.Specifically, I’ve discovered it projects mildly from skin for the first 2 hours, before simmering closer for another 3. Therefore, expect about 5 hours of total longevity. Let's be honest, this is, above all, a leathery-spicy fragrance. Oud is there (mostly in the top notes) just to make it more exotic and intense. This is actually a leather-oud accord, as stated by the brand. Not the chemical, sometimes harsh shade you sometimes get with oud, but a spicy, nose-tingling peppery opening. After that, oud is leading the way to a rather soft drydown with hot, dry labdanum. It's not too complex but delightful in a simple and sensual way. If you were expecting a loud scent, reminiscent of Oriental souks with sweaty hairy men selling you spices, you are in for a disappointment. This is refined masculinity at its best.

In summary, Versace Oud Noir smells like a gentle oud scent, traversing several nuances through its development. They start with spices and tangy orange, before floating through sweetness and warmth. Finally, the oud rests upon a base pairing of resins and earthiness. Oud Noir won't fill a room unless you take a bath in it but it's not exactly a skin-scent. It's a polite sexy and cosmopolitan oriental blend, mixed by European taste. A perfect example of how oud can be used to make a balanced fragrance without shouting or oozing in amber and cumin. It's suitable for all ocasions, day and night, the only downside being its brief longevity—four hours tops, remaining just a woody-peppery memory after that. Although this is not quite niche-quality, it is better than almost every mainstream release in recent times. Versace did it right, releasing a fragrance that really is a bridge between Occidental and Oriental perfumery, combining European attitude with Eastern materials. Here's a selection of the very best oud fragrances for men available right now. And if you want to broaden your scented horizons? Take a look at our guide to the best men's fragrances. The oud itself I do not feel as animalistic or faecal, it rather goes into the medical direction and appears "noir" and woody and smoky, although it is also not, as mentioned, THE main theme of the fragrance. The oud endures as the blend fully dries down. Frankincense and patchouli emerge soon after, deepening its presence. This new duo also ingrains resinous, earthy hues. They become more distinct over time as earlier ingredients slowly withdraw.It doesn’t last long on many people, but it does on me. The saffron and OUD mix quite well. Don’t expect strong projection, people will smell you for sure that you know. It’s a complement getter big time but not outdoors or in big crowds, Versace pour Homme Oud Noir (2013) is really close to the discontinued Versace Man (2003) to my nose, so much that I believe that one may have been discontinued to give this one some space on the market, and to basically re-market an idea that didn't do so well a decade beforehand with an upscale twist. That upscale twist of course, is the claimed oud note, which in the mostly-Versace-Man-on-steroids build of Versace pour Homme Oud Noir reads like peppery woods a la Creed Royal Oud (2011), after which this may also be chasing. As a downmarket alternative to Royal Oud, I can wholeheartedly recommend Versace pour Homme Oud Noir as well, as the scent really does feel like a mix between it and the erstwhile original Versace Man. It's really just that simple. People compare this to Tom Ford Oud Wood (2007) and I don't see it. The heart is first of all shaped by saffron and then especially by a sweet incense - I love it (!) - I do not perceive cardamom personally. In my experience, incense is more likely to be perceived at a distance, and saffron is more likely to be perceived at close proximity to the skin. Through the present male sweetness (of the incense) this Versace fragrance slowly but steadily becomes warmer and more oriental, the incense, which I perceive until the end, makes him by its mysterious, smoky resinous, but also slightly sweet, effect to a "noir". For this reason, I give the fragrance 9 points, half a point because of the choppy / disharmonious transition between the head and heart notes, and another half point because of the oud, which could have been a little bit, but not much, stronger.