At last the final colour for Caunter. Specified as the darkest colour to be used on vehicles painted with the Caunter scheme. Came into use in 1940 and apparently retained as one of the alternative colours to be used with the 1942 patterns. When airbrushing be certain to use any of the following Tamiya thinners: Items-81020, 81030, 81040, 81520, 87077. Mix: 1prt XF24 + 1 prt XF4. This is a fraction dark compared to the standard but a touch of white or light grey will tone it down. Not bad, imho. Certainly much closer than the others. The XF61 is much darker than the XF81, but still has a yellow-green (ie: "olive") cast to it, so it darkens the mixture enough without drastically altering the hue or chroma.

As a follow-up to the discussion threas Modeldad started earlier today regarding Tamiya's XF-81 RAF Dark Green 2, here are some comparisons I made using recently painted-out color swatches. The swatches were visually compared - very unscientifically, mind - to the Dark Green reference swatch in my copy of British Aviation Colours of World War Two. All comparisons and photos were taken indoors under "full-spectrum" incandescent bulbs, and the pics were shot with my iPad. So this is all very ad hoc, and no comparisons were made properly using daylight or a colorimiter. So with that gain of salt taken, here we are.Mix: 5pts XF61 + 2pts XF62 + 2pts XF3. This is fraction darker than the standard so a wee touch more XF3 won't hurt. Then allow for scale effect.

First off, here's a comparison of RAF Dark Green versus GSI's Mr. Color 309, Green FS34079, since 34079 is often mentioned as a close approximation. Bear in mind that Mr. Color 309 dries to a semi-gloss sheen, versus the dead flat reference chip, making it appear a bit darker.AddThis sets this geolocation cookie to help understand the location of users who share the information. I never quite understand these complaints. But I'm not going to be one of those people who trot out "never had a problem" because that really annoys me and it's not helpful. So I will try to give some pointers. Just keep in mind that without being able to watch how someone uses a product, I may overlook some error which I haven't thought of. This cookie, set by YouTube, registers a unique ID to store data on what videos from YouTube the user has seen. When it comes to Jamie, even me, as a fairly newish member, know about Jamie being so helpful, as he already has been to me on another couple of Models I just realized I have a bottle of GSI's Mr Color 361 RAF Dark Green (WW2) number from their RAF Color Set 2. I'll add a swatch of that one tomorrow when I have some time. I also have some related Humbrol enamel swatches I can throw in as well (and no, Humbrol 30 Dark Green is not close at all. Oddly, it still looks good when used on early-war RAF fighters though. But maybe it's just me).

For better paint brushing results use Tamiya Paint Retarder (item 87114) for a smoother brushstroke free finish. What really is bothering me with the instructions, the Upper Hull above the Plimsoll Line and Superstructure, they've got it a Light Grey, Vallejo 907, Tamiya XF14 and Humbrol 147 with an addition of Model Master 1732, something I've never used, however, I wont be using this Light Grey, I really do feel a lot of Builders will be quite annoyed at the paint instructions, but like you Jamie, you'll probably throw them out altogether, which I really am now considering doing, seriously!Deep Bronze Green is mixed by 8pts XF5 + 5pts XF62 = Old dark colour. You need a satin varnish over this for the depth of colour. Use enough pressure to allow your airbrush to atomise it properly. That may not be the same as what someone else recommends, but your 20psi is a long away from what I use. This service does not deliver on a Saturday or Sunday. If you would like Saturday delivery please call us on 01782 409310.